Surfing is more than just a sport; it’s an experience that connects individuals with the raw power of nature. It’s about understanding the ocean and learning how to navigate its forces with respect. From the first moment you touch the water, the goal is not to fight the sea but to work with it. What’s even more amazing is that, in doing so, you don’t just survive the waves—you learn to play within the tremendous power of the surf.
Nestled 126 kilometers southwest of San Fernando, in the Region of Libertador General Bernardo O’Higgins (VI Region) of Chile, Pichilemu is not only known for its beauty and tranquility but also for its ideal wind and wave conditions, making it one of the premier destinations for surfing enthusiasts. The town’s combination of pristine beaches, strong waves, and a laid-back surf culture attracts surfers of all skill levels, from beginners to seasoned professionals.
In this article, we will explore the best surf spots in Pichilemu, the conditions that make it an exceptional destination, and tips for those looking to take up the sport or improve their skills.
The Best Surf Spots in Pichilemu
La Puntilla: A Beginner’s Paradise
La Puntilla is one of the most popular beaches in Pichilemu, located right in front of the Ross Park. It is a spacious beach, fully equipped with bathrooms, showers, changing rooms, and parking. This makes it a convenient spot for both swimmers and surfers alike.
For surfers, La Puntilla offers a long left-hand wave, approximately one kilometer in length, making it a consistent and reliable break. The wave here is not too aggressive, with sizes ranging from one to four meters depending on the swell, making it perfect for beginners who are just starting their surfing journey. The wave’s gentle nature allows surfers to practice and master their skills without the pressure of powerful, challenging waves.
El Infiernillo: For the More Experienced Surfer
A little over 500 meters south of Punta La Puntilla lies El Infiernillo, a beach that offers a more intense surf experience. Known for its dramatic black sand and rocky outcrops, El Infiernillo also features beautiful sunsets and a unique atmosphere. It is a great place for fishing and various other water sports, but it’s especially renowned for its surfing conditions.
The waves at El Infiernillo are much more powerful and tubular, with consistent left-hand breaks. It is recommended for surfers with more experience, as the waves here can range from two to four meters in height, and the break happens near the rocks, which can be dangerous for beginners. For those ready for more advanced challenges, El Infiernillo provides thrilling waves and is a must-visit spot in Pichilemu.
Punta Lobos: The Extreme Surfing Destination
Located six kilometers south of Pichilemu, Punta Lobos is the ultimate surf destination for experienced surfers. The beach is surrounded by dramatic cliffs, and the waves here are some of the largest in the area, often reaching six meters or more during the winter swells. Surfers need to walk over rocks and cross a channel of rough waters to reach the surf zone, making the entry quite challenging. The waves at Punta Lobos are long left-hand breaks, similar to La Puntilla but much more intense.
Given the size of the waves and the challenging conditions, this spot is not recommended for beginners. However, for those with experience and a sense of adventure, Punta Lobos offers a breathtaking and adrenaline-pumping surf experience.
Surfing Conditions in Pichilemu
The surf conditions in Pichilemu are ideal for surfers at all levels. One of the main features of Pichilemu’s beaches is the consistent swell that creates excellent waves year-round. The powerful currents and strong winds add to the allure, creating an environment where surfers can harness the ocean’s energy for a thrilling ride.
However, it’s important to note that the water temperature in Pichilemu is quite cold, even during the summer months. Therefore, a wetsuit is essential for maintaining body temperature and ensuring comfort in the water. In the colder months, surfers may need a thicker wetsuit (4/3mm), and additional accessories like booties, gloves, and a hood can provide extra warmth.
For those surfing at La Puntilla, a 6.5-foot board is ideal for smaller waves, while an 8.5-foot board is recommended for the larger waves at Punta Lobos. Choosing the right board size and style is crucial for ensuring an optimal surf experience, depending on the conditions and the surfer’s skill level.
Surfing for Everyone: A Sport for All Ages
Contrary to the misconception that surfing is reserved for the young and the fit, it is a sport that can be enjoyed by people of all ages. While the minimum age for starting to learn how to surf is typically around 9 years old, there are instances of children as young as 4 or 5 years old learning to swim and then starting their surfing journey early. However, age is not a barrier, as people in their 40s and even their 70s have successfully taken up the sport and maintained an active surf lifestyle.
Learning to surf may seem daunting at first, but it’s a skill that can be mastered with time, patience, and practice. Beginners should not be discouraged by initial challenges, as the process of getting comfortable in the ocean and on the board is part of the joy of the sport.
The First Steps: What to Expect
When starting to surf, the first challenge is adjusting to the new environment of the ocean. Unlike other sports, surfing requires a deep understanding of the water, its movements, and how to read and anticipate the waves.
In the early days, you will likely experience some physical fatigue, especially in your arms as you learn to paddle. This is normal, as the muscles used in surfing are different from those used in other activities. After several sessions, your endurance and paddling strength will improve significantly, allowing you to navigate the waves more effectively.
Another key challenge for beginners is balance. Surfing is all about maintaining stability on a moving surface, and it can feel impossible at first. However, like learning to ride a bike or roller skate, the more you practice, the quicker you will get the hang of it. The most important thing is to stay relaxed, fall off the board when you need to, and enjoy the process.
Basic Knowledge of Waves
Understanding the ocean’s movements is fundamental for a surfer. While no two waves are exactly alike, the sea generally follows a predictable pattern that surfers can learn to read over time. For beginners, it’s important to understand that you are not fighting the ocean but working with it. The ocean’s power can be intimidating, but with respect and practice, surfers can learn to harness its energy to their advantage.
The most enjoyable part of surfing is riding the wave. As you gain experience, you will start to develop the ability to anticipate the next wave, position yourself correctly, and maximize the ride. The sense of freedom and exhilaration that comes from riding a wave is what makes surfing addictive and so rewarding.
When to Start Surfing
The best time to start surfing is when the weather and sea conditions are most comfortable. However, with the right attitude and determination, you can begin your surfing journey at any time. Many people start surfing during the summer months when the weather is warmer, but if you’re serious about learning and progressing, you may want to invest in the proper wetsuit to stay comfortable in colder waters year-round.
Choosing the Right Equipment
A key component of your surf journey is choosing the right equipment. Surfboards come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and materials, and it’s essential to select one that fits your needs. For beginners, a longer, more stable board is ideal, as it makes it easier to paddle and catch waves. A board that is in good condition, free from cracks or damage, is also important for safety and performance.
Wearing a surf leash, or “traba de surf,” is also recommended for safety. This elastic cord attaches the board to your ankle, preventing the board from drifting away if you fall off. The leash should be easy to remove if necessary, and it is crucial for both your safety and the safety of others in the water.
Picking the Right Beach
Beginners often make the mistake of choosing a beach with challenging waves. To avoid dangerous situations, it’s essential to choose a beach where the waves break gently and consistently, away from rocks or other hazards. Ask local surfers for advice on the best spots for beginners, and be sure to familiarize yourself with the surf conditions before entering the water.
Taking Surf Lessons
While it’s possible to learn the basics from books or videos, nothing beats having an instructor in the water with you to teach you proper technique and safety rules. Surf lessons are a great way to accelerate your learning process and ensure that you are surfing safely and effectively.
Surfing in Pichilemu is an incredible experience that offers something for everyone, whether you are a seasoned surfer or just starting out. The unique combination of challenging waves, stunning scenery, and a welcoming surf community makes Pichilemu one of the top surf destinations in the world. With the right equipment, attitude, and dedication, you too can experience the thrill of surfing in one of Chile’s most iconic surf towns.
